In Iraq a power cut does not stop at the lights and the air conditioner, it reaches the internet in the same instant. The router, the fibre modem (ONU) and the wireless access point are small devices, but they shut down the moment the current disappears, and some of them need a minute or more to bring the link back once power returns: a work call drops, an online class is lost, a security camera stops sending. The fix is simple and inexpensive, a small backup power unit dedicated to the network corner that keeps the connection alive during the seconds it takes to switch between the grid and the generator, and for hours if you choose carefully. This guide explains the selection criteria, the real difference between two very different products sold under the name UPS, and which of the available models fits your case.
How to choose
- Type of unit first: a DC unit outputs direct current (9, 12, 15 or 24 volts) straight into the router power socket, while a classic UPS outputs 220 volts and can run any device through its original adapter.
- Your device voltage and plug polarity: read the label on each original adapter before buying, because the wrong voltage destroys a router instantly.
- Real load in watts: the VA number is not the watts you can draw, the real capacity is always lower, so add up your devices and leave headroom.
- Battery capacity: this is what sets the runtime, not the VA figure. Two 12 volt 12 amp batteries run longer than two 9 amp batteries at the same load.
- Line interactive technology: it includes a voltage regulator that corrects mild sags and surges without draining the battery, which matters a lot on an unstable grid.
- LCD screen and serviceability: a status screen shortens troubleshooting, and the availability of a replacement battery locally is what really decides the unit lifespan.
- Where you install it: good ventilation, away from dust and direct sun, because heat is the biggest enemy of lead batteries.
Mini UPS GeTX GSP2: the purpose built answer for a router
A small 36 watt DC unit, and the most precise choice for anyone who only wants to keep the router and modem running. It supports several output voltages (9, 12, 15 and 24 volts) plus a PoE output that can feed a distant access point or camera over the network cable itself. It delivers direct current straight to the device without stepping up to 220 volts and back down again, so less energy is wasted. It is completely silent and small enough to hide behind the router.
UPS GeTX GSCA1: for cameras and 12 or 15 volt gear
Another DC unit, aimed mainly at security cameras and similar devices that run on 12 or 15 volts. If your outdoor camera or small recorder dies with every cut, this unit solves it the same way, continuous direct supply with no fan and no noise. Many people pair it with a small router unit, because a camera without internet cannot be viewed remotely.
UPS GeTX GXK-850-C: the smallest 220 volt option
The lightest Line interactive unit in this list: 850VA with a single 12 volt 9 amp battery and an LCD screen showing supply and charge status. It suits a simple corner with a router, a modem and perhaps one extra small device, and anyone who prefers to stay on the familiar 220 volt socket and use original adapters. Its advantages are size, weight and a small installation footprint.
UPS GeTX GXK-1000-C: the practical middle ground at home
1000VA with two 12 volt 7 amp batteries and an LCD screen. The wider margin allows a router, a modem, a small camera and perhaps a monitor or a light desktop device. Being Line interactive means a voltage regulator steps in before the unit has to switch to battery, an important point in areas where voltage swings all day long.
UPS GeTX GXK-1500-C: when the device count grows
1500VA with two 12 volt 9 amp batteries. The upgrade runs in two directions at once: higher instantaneous capacity for extra loads, and a bigger battery that means longer runtime at the same load. It suits a small office with a router, a switch and a desktop computer, or a home that wants the network and cameras to survive a relatively long outage.
UPS GeTX GXK-2000-C: more capacity for a full work corner
2000VA with two 12 volt 9 amp batteries, for anyone running several network devices alongside a desktop computer or a multi channel camera recorder. Remember that raising the VA number alone does not extend runtime while the battery stays the same, so this is the choice for someone who needs to carry a bigger load, not someone who wants extra hours on a small load.
UPS Gaming GeTX GTXF-2000: the largest battery capacity here
2000VA but with two 12 volt 12 amp batteries, the highest storage capacity among the models listed here. The difference shows up in practice as runtime: on a light load such as a router, a modem and a camera it gives you the longest time of the group. A strong candidate if you want one unit that serves a workstation by day and keeps the internet alive at night.
GETX MTS-160: tidying the wiring behind the router
The network corner is usually a mess of small adapters fighting over one socket. This strip adds extra sockets and four USB ports that feed small devices without a separate adapter. It is not a substitute for a backup unit and gives no runtime during a cut, but it organises the cabling and stops someone pulling the router plug by accident. Connect it to the UPS output rather than the wall socket if you want it useful during an outage.
Common buying mistakes
- Confusing VA with watts: the number printed on the box is not the wattage available to you, the real capacity is always lower.
- Expecting hours from a heavy load: adding a cooler or a water pump to a unit you bought for a router drains the battery in minutes.
- Connecting motors or heating appliances: a fridge, a pump or an iron are loads that units of this size cannot serve at all.
- Ignoring voltage on DC units: plugging a 12 volt router into a 24 volt output destroys it instantly, so check the plug and its polarity first.
- Putting it inside a closed cabinet: heat is the fastest way to consume battery life, and the Iraqi summer alone is enough to shorten it.
- Leaving it discharged for months: an uncharged battery degrades, so charge it before any long storage.
Frequently asked questions
Is a small UPS enough to run both the router and the modem?
Usually yes, because network devices are among the lowest consumers in the house. What matters is adding up each device from its adapter label and confirming the total sits inside the unit capacity with a safety margin.
What is the difference between a Mini UPS and a classic UPS?
A Mini UPS of the DC type outputs direct current that goes straight into the router socket, so it is smaller, quieter and better suited to this specific job. A classic UPS outputs 220 volts and can run anything, but it is bigger and heavier.
How long does the internet last during a cut?
There is no single answer, because the time is set by battery capacity against the real load. A single router gives you far longer than a corner where a camera recorder and a desktop computer run together.
Does the unit protect against voltage swings?
Line interactive units include a voltage regulator that corrects mild sags and surges without touching the battery, which reduces the number of transfers and extends battery life. It is not a replacement for a stabiliser serving the whole house.
When do I need to replace the battery?
When the runtime is clearly shorter than it was in the first months, or the unit drops out the moment power fails despite a full charge indicator. Lead batteries are consumables by nature and are heavily affected by heat.
Can I run the unit from a generator?
Yes, but generator output quality varies. If you notice the unit switching to battery constantly while the generator runs, the cause is usually voltage or frequency instability, and it is better not to leave it connected for long in that state.
How do I order and where does it arrive?
Delivery is available to every governorate in Iraq, with cash on delivery after you inspect the unit and the box contents. Confirm your phone number when ordering so the call reaches you easily.
Practical summary
If your only goal is keeping the router and modem alive, start with a small DC unit: quieter, smaller and longer running on a light load. If you want to protect a whole corner of 220 volt devices, pick a Line interactive unit with a battery capacity matched to your load rather than by the VA number alone. For a camera system a separate DC unit remains the cleanest option. Finally, install the unit somewhere well ventilated and away from dust, and check the runtime every few months so you know when the battery needs replacing before it surprises you.
